Nissan Titan Brake Pad And Rotor Replacement
Replacement procedure: This is really a very easy job to do if you have some basic tools.
Tools:
Jack and Jack Stands
4 way for removing lug nuts or the 21MM socket
21MM socket (Lug nuts and Torque Member Bolts)
14MM socket (Sliding Pin Bolts)
1/2" drive ratchet and extensions
Broad Blade Straight Slot screwdriver
4" C-Clamp
Bungee Cord(for holding Caliper once removed)
Torque wrench able to Torque to 155 FT-Lbs. (places like Autozone will lend these to you)
Cheater bar (for getting the 155 FT-Lbs Torque Member bolts loose). Or Rubber Mallet (self Explanatory)
Extras:
Brake Fluid
Disk Brake Quiet
Service manual
The last thing you need is a way to siphon some of the brake fluid out. I have a Mighty Vac that is designed for doing this but there are other ways to remove it like the old Lady's turkey baster or the bulb your wife used on the infants for cleaning out their noses and ears when they were tiny. (Just don't put them back when you're done.)
Here we go, 1:) Remove 3/4 of the brake fluid from the reservoir and then drape a clean rag over and around it. (When you compress the pistons back into the caliper fluid will be forced into the reservoir.)
2.) Loosen the lugs on the left wheel then jack the truck up until the wheel is off the ground and put a jack stand under the truck for safety. Now take the lug nuts off and remove the wheel.
3.) Now we're going to remove the two sliding pin bolts using a 14 MM socket. With these two bolts removed you can now use the screwdriver to pry the caliper back from the rotor and then move it out of the way and hang it with the bungee cord to keep from damaging the brake line. (For brake pad replacement that's all the disassembly required.)
4.) Now we just slide both brake pads out. Take the new pads and apply Brake Quiet to the back sides of the pad per the directions. Note: Remember that the pad with the metal depth gage on it (Starts grating when your pads need replacement) goes on the inside with the metal flange toward the bottom.
5.) Now take one of the old brake pads and place it against the two pistons sticking out of the caliper and position a 4" C-clamp to facilitate the compression of the pistons back into the caliper. Reassembly is just reverse, with the torque spec for the two sliding pin bolts being 32 Ft-Lbs and the lug nuts being 98 Ft-Lbs, per the owners' manual.
Now the fun part :
6.) In order to remove the rotors we have to remove both the upper and lower torque member bolts so we can remove the torque member. (The torque member is what the Pads are in). Note: On the left side, I used a 21 MM wrench and kept smacking it with a rubber mallet to get the bolt out. On the right side I used a ratchet with a piece of pipe slid over the handle for leverage. In the future I'll use my air impact wrench but I wanted to prove to myself that no special tools were needed for this.
After you get the torque member removed, the rotors just slide off and on the studs for the lug nuts. (Make sure you get the correct rotor on the correct side of the truck. For the Powerslot rotors, the rotor labeled L goes on the drivers side of the truck, with the R rotor going on the passenger side.)
7.) Now you just reinstall every thing in reverse. Note: The manual says to not reuse the torque member bolts. New rotor and OEM Torque member reinstalled with the two bolts being torqued to 155 Ft-Lbs
After you get the other side done and both wheels back on make sure to top off the brake fluid and put the lid back on the reservoir and bed these puppies in.